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Licensing Plays, Strategic Capital, and Protein’s Rise
This week we’re tracking moves across apparel, wellness, and protein that highlight how consumer brands scale, restructure, and attract capital. Plus, we break down what makes beauty & wellness fundable with True Beauty Ventures.
VF Corp Shrinks, Bluestar Expands
Back in 2017, VF Corp bought Dickies for $820M, betting on workwear alongside Vans and The North Face. Eight years later, VF’s market cap has collapsed from $30B+ to ~$5B, and it’s now unloading Dickies to Bluestar Alliance for $600M in cash.
VF’s play: deleveraging and focusing on Vans, The North Face, Timberland.
Bluestar’s play: acquiring distressed but culturally relevant brands and monetizing through licensing. Their portfolio already includes Off-White, Hurley, and Scotch & Soda.
Investor angle: Despite Dickies’ sales shrinking ~40% since 2017, it still fetched ~1× revenue. Brand/IP equity remains sticky — multiples hold, even in decline.
Bloom Chooses Strategic Capital
Instead of raising another venture round, Bloom Nutrition doubled down with strategic partner Nutrabolt (owner of C4).
The deal: $90M in early 2024 + $160M last week = ~$250M invested.
The logic: Beverage expansion (Sparkling Energy, Bloom Pop) is capital intensive. Strategics like Nutrabolt bring not just money, but distribution, manufacturing, and category know-how.
Investor takeaway: More consumer brands may choose certainty and synergies with strategics, rather than chasing max valuation from VCs.
Protein Is Having Its Moment
Slate Milk just raised $23M Series B to scale distribution to 100K doors by year-end. It’s the latest proof that protein is one of the hottest categories in CPG:
M&A comps: OWYN sold for $280M (~2.3× sales, 13× EBITDA). Quest sold for $1B. Coca-Cola is scaling Fairlife to $7B+.
Category moves: Danone is rolling out protein-enhanced Oikos shakes. Kate Farms is leaning into GLP-1–aligned nutrition.
🎙️ Podcast: Caroline Weintraub on The 5 P’s of Beauty Investing
Caroline Weintraub of True Beauty Ventures joined me this week to share how specialist investors evaluate brands in beauty and wellness. Her Five P’s framework:
1️⃣ Positioning – differentiated, clear whitespace
2️⃣ Product – uncompromising quality
3️⃣ People – teams who can scale
4️⃣ Performance – margins + retention that prove staying power
5️⃣ Partnership – founders who want more than just capital
We also discussed:
Why beauty and wellness are converging
Why affiliate marketing is quietly outperforming influencer plays
Lessons from early bets like K18 and Dew
🎧 Watch on YouTube, listen on Spotify.
That’s it for this week.
If you liked this issue, forward to a friend who obsesses over brand strategy, capital flows, or exit timing.
In the Money – following the flow of capital in consumer
P.S. We love talking to brands interested in exiting in the next 3-18 months. If you know of any brands interested in exiting, or any firms trying to help port cos manage turnarounds, we'd love to share a POV.
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